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Journal Articles Ocean Dynamics Year : 2018

On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics

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Abstract

The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.

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Rafael Almar, Alexandre Nicolae Lerma, Bruno Castelle, Timothy Scott. On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics. Ocean Dynamics, 2018, 68, pp.899-909. ⟨10.1007/s10236-018-1165-5⟩. ⟨insu-03670738⟩
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