Wave variability along the world's continental shelves and coasts: Monitoring opportunities from satellite Earth observation

Erwin W. J. Bergsma (1) , Rafael Almar (2) , Edward J. Anthony (3) , Thierry Garlan (4) , Elodie Kestenare (2)

1 CNES - Centre National d’Études Spatiales [Paris]
2 LEGOS - Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales
3 CEREGE - Centre européen de recherche et d'enseignement des géosciences de l'environnement
4 SHOM - Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine

Insight on wave regimes along the world's coastlines is important for virtually all coastal and nearshore marine activities, installations, planning and protection. Waves are pervasive and the dominant source of energy driving extreme sea levels, the transport of pollutants and sediments, erosion, and a major contributor to risks of flooding. We quantify the global spatio-temporal wave conditions along the world's coasts and evaluate the needs for coastal Earth Observation strategies, with the aim, notably, that the derived scales of change can contribute to optimisation of these strategies. A global dominant timescale of 30 days is found in coastal wave variability that is, on average, spatially correlated just over the synoptic 5 degrees' regional scale (≈ 550 km at the equator). This regional-scale dimension suggests that the timing and design of traditional field surveys and observations relevant to a vast array of coastal activities, and which may be expensive in terms of human resources, may be complemented by information gained from satellite Earth Observation that throws light on spatio-temporal scales of wave-energy change along the world's coastlines.

Mots clés: Wave variability; Coastal observations; Seasonality; Satellite monitoring

Domaines: Planète et Univers [physics]

Erwin W. J. Bergsma, Rafael Almar, Edward J. Anthony, Thierry Garlan, Elodie Kestenare. Wave variability along the world's continental shelves and coasts: Monitoring opportunities from satellite Earth observation. Advances in Space Research, 2022, 69, pp.3236-3244. ⟨10.1016/j.asr.2022.02.047⟩. ⟨insu-03661010⟩