Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation

Matthias Foerster 1, 2, 3 Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger 1, 2, * Delphine Ach 1, 2 Gilles Montagnac 4 Stéphanie Briançon 1, 2
* Auteur correspondant
1 LAGEP - Laboratoire d'automatique et de génie des procédés
2 Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie
3 Gattefossé SAS
4 LGL-TPE - Laboratoire de Géologie de Lyon - Terre, Planètes, Environnement [Lyon]
Abstract : Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) was used to follow the absorption of retinol into the skin and to track the absorption of ingredients in topically applied formulations. Three surfactants, PEG20C12, PEG20C18:1 (hydrophilic) and PEG6C18:1 (lipophilic), were used in preparing three o/w emulsions and three surfactant solutions all containing retinol. Quantitative retinol penetration studies for 24 h were carried out using Franz diffusion cells. CRM was used to follow the skin penetration of retinol, oil and water and also to study a possible modification of the lipid skin barrier in the stratum corneum (SC) using the ratio of I(2880)/I(2850). The oily surfactant solution containing PEG6C18:1 and dodecane showed the highest retinol penetration rate. This appears to be related both to the short polar head group of the surfactant and to the effect of dodecane on skin lipids. All the surfactant solutions showed a higher penetration rate compared with the corresponding emulsions. CRM measurements showed that the ratios of I(2880)/I(2850) were significantly modified using surfactant solutions. Penetration behavior appeared to be dependent on the surfactant used in the formulation. CRM associated to the Franz cell method gives new insights on permeation of drug related to vehicle or ingredients
Keywords : confocal Raman microspectroscopy delivery formulation ingredient tracking retinol skin
Type de document :
Article dans une revue
Pharmaceutical Research, American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists, 2011, 28 (4), pp.858-872. 〈10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0〉
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Contributeur : Margaret Lartaud <>
Soumis le : vendredi 30 mars 2012 - 10:59:56
Dernière modification le : jeudi 14 février 2019 - 13:58:05

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ENS-LYON | INSU | LAGEP | LGL-TPE | UNIV-LYON1

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Matthias Foerster, Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Delphine Ach, Gilles Montagnac, Stéphanie Briançon. Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation. Pharmaceutical Research, American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists, 2011, 28 (4), pp.858-872. 〈10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0〉. 〈insu-00683915〉

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